The wines of Envinate, one of Spain’s most exciting producers

Jamie Goode's wine blog jamiegoode

Alfonso Torrente and Roberto Santana

Envinate is a really exciting project from Spain, focusing on making terroir-transparent wines from mainly Atlantic-influenced regions. It began in 2008 with four friends who’d studied enology together in Alicante: Laura Ramos, José Martinez, Roberto Santana and Alfonso Torrente. Laura and José work in Almansa and Extremadura, but the main the thrust of Envinate is two regions: Roberto in Tenerife, with the Táganan wines, and Alfonso in Ribeira Sacra with Lousas. Overall, 140 000 bottles are produced annually, with Tenerife accounting for just over half of these.

I met with Roberto and Alfonso to try these wines, which are imported into the UK by Indigo.

Envinate Taganan Blanco 2016 Taganana, Tenerfie, Spain
This is from a range of grape varieties that were first planted in Tenerife by the Portuguese in the 16th Century. It’s from coastal vineyards. Salty and savoury with lively, taut citrus fruits. Transparent and mineral, this is structural and well built and has an expressive personality. 94/100

Envinate Benje Blanco 2016 Santiago del Teide 2016 Tenerife, Spain
This is Listan Blanco (Palomino) from 1000 m. Complex nutty pear and citrus nose with some waxy hints. Lively and nutty and textural on the palate with lemons, herbs and fine spices. Tangy and complex. 94/100

Envinate Palo Blanco 2016 Valle de la Orotova, Tenerfie, Spain
Listan Blanco. Very fresh, delicate and fine with tangy lemony fruit and notes of pith and minerals. Such a lovely fine citrussy core with lovely focus. A bit salty, too. 95/100

Envinate Albahra Tinto 2016 Almansa, Spain
70% Garnacha Tintorea (Alicante Bouschet, in concrete) and 30% Moravia Agria (which is low alcohol and high acid, in barrel). Generous but focused with vivid, grippy cherry, plum and raspberry fruit. Tight wound and grippy with with nice acid and structure. Such pure fruit. 93/100

Envinate Lousas Vino Aldea 2016 Ribeira Sacra, Spain
90% Mencia, 10% others. 100% whole cluster. Lifted cherry and spice aromatics. Supple and slight meaty with some herby hints. Tangy, saline, grippy and fresh with lovely pretty floral fruit. Nice definition. 94/100

Envinate Taganan Tinto 2016 Taganana, Tenerife, Spain
From black basalt soils near the coast. Mainly Listan Negro and Neramore. Supple, juicy, fine and expressive with nice cherries, plums and spice. Lighter and more elegant with great definition. 93/100

Envinate Benje Tinto 2016 Santiago del Teide, Tenerife, Spain
From 1000 m. 12% alcohol. Mission/Pais planted by the Spanish, which is high acid, low alcohol and low colour. Very fresh, sappy and elegant with red cherries, minerals and spice. So delicate with real presence. Grippy, high acid finish. Lovely. 95/100

Envinate Migan 2016 Valle de la Orotava, Tenerife, Spain
From two vineyards at 400 and 600 m. Juicy and supple with raspberries and red cherries. Lovely purity and high acidity with some grip on the finish. Has an attractive sappy green edge. 94/100

Find these wines with wine-searcher.com

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